Pattern Issues

Lately, I've been trying to design various patterns. I have many ideas in my head, but getting them on paper seems a bit difficult.

I guess the problem comes from not having knit many things from patterns. I've been knitting for 8 years, but until about 18 months ago I only knit variations of rectangles. Since then I have made a kid's cardigan, a pair of gloves, and some socks.

While these have given me a bit more experience with patterns and garment construction, I don't think I'm ready for sleeve or neckline shaping.

Anyway, I was able to knit a friend a pair of socks of my own design. I took a chance on pattern writing. They aren't complicated socks, just knee-length cable socks, but it's a start.

Feel free to try the pattern and let me know what you think of it! Enjoy!

Materials:

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice 2 Balls

Size 5 Double Pointed Needles

Stitch Markers

Toe Shaping

• Use a Figure 8 cast-on to CO 10 stitches.
• Knit once around all stitches dividing evenly between four needles, leaving 5 stitches on each. Place markers after the first stitch on your first  and third needles and before the last stitch on your second and fourth needles.
• *Knit 1, kfb, knit rest of needle. Knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, knit 1. Knit 1, kfb, knit rest of needle. Knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, knit 1.
• Knit 1 round.*
• Repeat * to * until there are ten stitches on each needle.

Foot Pattern

• #Purl 2, cable 3 left, p 4, cable 3 left, p2, k 20
• P2, K 6, P 4, K 6, P 2, K 20-- seven rounds#
• Repeat # to # until foot measures 1 inch smaller than length of your longest toe to heel

Heel Shaping

• Begin on your sole (or the K 20 stitches) and K 19, W&T
• P 18, W&T
• K 17, W&T
• P 16, W&T
• K 15, W&T
• P 14, W&T
• K 13, W&T
• P 12, W&T
• K 11, W&T
• P 10, W&T

Here you will begin to make increases in the heel again. You will be creating double wraps, and have two strands of yarn to knit when you pick up your short rows. Just make sure you get both of them and it will work as a normal short row pick up.

• K 11, W&T
• P 12, W&T
• K 13, W&T
• P 14, W&T
• P 15, W&T
• K 16, W&T
• P 17, W&T
• K 18, W&T
• P 19, W&T

Begin the leg pattern. You will still have one W&T to deal with on your next round, but just knit or purl it into the next stitch and it will end up fine.

Leg Shaping and Pattern

The leg pattern is basically the same as the foot pattern, but around the entire leg. I also chose to make the increases on the same row as the cables so I would have one row to really focus on, also it helps to counter the suction of the cabling. I have only one increase per cable so the increases will be a bit asymmetrical, but this is not noticeable.

It also helped me to keep each cable on one needle, though I got fewer ladders if I had two cables on a needle leaving me with three dpns total (or this would also be the effect of a magic loop). If you prefer to use dpns, I colored the directions to correspond to each needle, it does involve splitting some of the purling.

• Purl 1, make 1, p 1, cable 3 left, P4, C3L, P1, M1, P3, cable 3 left, P4, C3L, P2
• P3, K6, P4, K6, P5, K6, P4, K6, P2- seven rounds
• P3, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P3, C3L, P4, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P3, C3L, P2
• P3, K6, P5, K6, P5, K6, P5, K6, P2- seven rounds

This is the basic pattern, increasing on each cable row. Repeat until there are 10 stitches between cables, then repeat without increases until you’ve reached desired length, about 13 inches.

• Purl 1, make 1, P2, cable 3 left, P5, C3L, P1, M1, P4, cable 3 left, P5, C3L, P2
• P4, K6, P5, K6, P6, K6, P5, K6, P2- seven rounds
• P4, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P4, C3L, P6, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P4, C3L, P2
• P4, K6, P6, K6, P6, K6, P6, K6, P2- seven rounds
• Purl 1, make 1, P3, cable 3 left, P6, C3L, P1, M1, P5, cable 3 left, P6, C3L, P2
• P5, K6, P6, K6, P7, K6, P6, K6, P2- seven rounds
• P5, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P5, C3L, P7, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P5, C3L, P2
• P5, K6, P7, K6, P7, K6, P7, K6, P2- seven rounds
• Purl 1, make 1, P4, cable 3 left, P7, C3L, P1, M1, P6, cable 3 left, P7, C3L, P2
• P6, K6, P7, K6, P8, K6, P7, K6, P2- seven rounds
• P6, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P6, C3L, P8, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P6, C3L, P2
• P6, K6, P8, K6, P8, K6, P8, K6, P2- seven rounds
• Purl 1, make 1, P5, cable 3 left, P8, C3L, P1, M1, P7, cable 3 left, P8, C3L, P2
• P7, K6, P8, K6, P9, K6, P8, K6, P2- seven rounds
• P7, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P7, C3L, P9, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P7, C3L, P2
• P7, K6, P9, K6, P9, K6, P9, K6, P2- seven rounds
• Purl 1, make 1, P6, cable 3 left, P9, C3L, P1, M1, P8, cable 3 left, P9, C3L, P2
• P8, K6, P9, K6, P10, K6, P9, K6, P2- seven rounds
• P8, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P8, C3L, P10, cable 3 left, P1, M1, P8, C3L, P2
• P8, K6, P10, K6, P10, K6, P10, K6, P2- seven rounds

This is the end of the increases.

• P8, C3L, P10, C3L, P10, C3L, P10, C3L, P2
• P8, K6, P10, K6, P10, K6, P10, K6, P2- seven rounds

Repeat these eight rounds until you have reached about 13 inches, or two inches short of your desired length ending after the seven rounds or ribbing.

Cuff

• K2, P2, K2, P2, C3L, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, C3L, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, C3L, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, C3L, P2
• K2, P2, K2, P2, K6, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K6, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K6, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K6, P2- seven rounds

Repeat these eight rounds for about two inches ending after the first round of the repeat. Bind off with any stretchy bind-off; I used the knit 2 together through the back.